K's Garden

Building a large garden on a budget

Welcome !! Saturday 5 November 2016

Filed under: Uncategorized — kgarden @ 12:05 am

This is mostly a diary of the development of our garden, and late on in the year I update all the articles on the site to show the changes we have made during the year (and as such “normal” Blog entries are posted sporadically).

If you are a returning visitor you might like to read the Autumn 2015 Tour – this will take you on a tour around all the articles that were changed at the end of 2015

If you are a new visitor, visiting for the first time, you might like to start with the About page

If you are looking for something specific please try the Blog Index.

I record pictures that interest me on Pinterest kGardenPins on Pinterest – I don’t Pin everything I see! just ones of interest.

If you would like to receive notifications when I add an update to my blog, which is usually no more than a couple of times a month, please use the “Follow” button in the menu on right hand pane.

eBay Sniper


Lifting Tender Plants for the Winter Tuesday 1 November 2016

Filed under: Uncategorized — kgarden @ 12:00 am

First frost was forecast so time to bring in the tender plants. This is in two stages for me, and takes a couple of days. I have a number of plants in the Exotic Garden which are in pots, plunged into the ground. These just need to be lifted and brought in – although the big ones need some effort to wrench them out of the ground.

Lifting Brugmansia Plunged-Pots for the Winter

When I plunge them, into their planting hole, in 1st week of June (after last frost and once it starts to warm up a bit) I put two ropes, knotted in the middle, under the pot so that I have a four-way cradle to winch them out of the ground with in the Autumn. I use an engine crane for this, and the plant releases with a significant “pop” as the roots that have grown out of the bottom of the pot give way.

Lifting Brugmansia Plunged-Pots for the Winter

I also have plants like tender Salvias which I just chuck in a pot and bring in for the Winter, here’s a photo of the Savlia amistad in full bloom

Salvia amistad

Salvia amistad

Salvia amistad

Salvia amistad

Its a bit of a performance at this time of the year as I have time in the Autumn, but come the Spring, when they start back into growth, there are a lot of other jobs seed raising, pricking out, and so on. So I take some extra time in the Autumn to pot them up, ready for Spring, rather than to just “store” them. I do the same for Dahlias [dry-ish compost] and Cannas, whereas the more conventional approach is to store them and then start them off in the Spring.

Here’s my one-man-work-party! for lifting tender plants ready for the Winter:

Lift Plants for Winter

Lift Plants for Winter

One barrow for the tops, that I cut down (and typically any other herbaceous plants that could do with cutting down too, although if frost is forecast I need to focus on getting things in, tidying the beds can be done later), another barrow with sieved home-made compost, which is all I use when potting them up, and a trolley to put the potted-up plants on.

I squeeze the plants into the smallest pot that will fit them, shaking off as much soil as possible. I want to keep the plants relatively dry during the winter, so the smallest pot and minimum amount of soil helps prevent anything rotting.

Lift Plants for Winter

Lift Plants for Winter

The area where the Salvias are planted has plenty of Spring flowering bulbs, and I tend to plant more each Autumn, and its always a pity to accidentally dig them up, so as an experiment this Autumn I have sunk a 2L pot in the space where each Salvia was lifted to mark that as a bulb-free-zone! I have quite a few Scilla peruviana which are in 2L pots (rather than being planted in the garden) because they are a bit tender and want good drainage, so my plan is to put then in the planting-holes after the worst of the February cold finishes and then at the start of June I can swap them for the Savlias again, or something else if I decide to have a change in that bed next year.


Logging the Flowering History Record Monday 18 April 2016

Filed under: Uncategorized — kgarden @ 12:00 am

I’m sure I make things far too complicated! but I’m a “detail person” and I don’t know another way.

The basic problem is simple: I want to record the dates that things flowered; if I then decide to move some plants around, or want to move a plant to be next to a companion that will show it off to best advantage, I want to remember, during the dormant / plant-moving season, what flowers at the same time as something else – or what will NOT flower until the other plant has finished.

I also need to remember what I have, and where it is planted, and there is no way on this earth that I would keep a fancy garden design CAD drawing up-to-date.

So some years back I came up with the idea of having a list of my plants in “walking order”. I can tell the difference between a Lily and a Lupin, so all I really need to know is that the Lily is “White Heaven” and the Lupin is “The Page”. Each time I planted something I added it into the list, between two existing entries, and I use the number of “strides” from the end of the bed as a distance indicator. I name my beds North, South, East or West, or perhaps NE, NW, SE, SW and so on. If a plant is recorded as NW04 then it is 4 strides from the end of the “NW” bed. The starting end, from which to stride out, is the house end. Of course I have beds at right angles to the house, and round beds, and all sorts, so there is some unconformity in the process – but so long as I am consistent for a bed that seems to have been good enough. Then I have suffixes “m” for the middle of the bed and “b” for the back … and “bb” for something that is right at the very back!

Nowadays I have an APP on my phone that the Walking Order plant list is stored in – I use EverNote which synchronises between my phone, tablet and desktop so I can just edit anything in whichever is close to hand and all the others stay synchronised. In the olden days I stored the list on my computer in a Notepad file, printed it out, scribbled on it when in the garden (if I had remembered to take it with me …) often didn’t get around to updating the original, and then got frustrated when I didn’t know what was where … I suppose Capability Brown always had a Scribe Minion at his side

The Walking order lists work well for me. If I need to know the name of the plant I can look it up. If I take some cuttings I just write “Penstemon NW12” on the label when I cut them and I don’t have to try to remember the variety – I can look that up later if and when it becomes necessary – or just plant the results around their siblings at NW12 the following spring. If I am walking around with a house guest I can look up the name of the plant to answer their question, and make a note to propagate one for them as a pressie.

But … how to record flowering? Or the fact that it needs protecting from a late frost, and do I care that it came from the Church fete rather than Kelways? When I place an order online I get a nice email confirmation, which is great as I can cut & paste it to my plant list … but it tends to include other information as well, which I am loathed to delete. I really should be more ruthless – the price will no doubt be of interest to a historian in 100 years time, but I don’t really need it in my Walking Order list! nor which flowering group the Pears are in, either I’ve planted the right ones near each other … or I haven’t!

Espallier Fruit list

Espallier Fruit – Walking Order Plant List

note that the Pears have got extra Wibble pasted into their entries … I need to get out of that habit … and clearly I didn’t look after the Cobnuts very well in their first season and several died of thirst.

For flowering I have been adding “18Apr16” next to the plant, and then year-by-year I get a list of cumulative flowering dates. If I manage to remember that I have not recorded the end of flowering then I edit it to 18Apr-10May16, but the trouble is the end of flowering doesn’t register with me as I walk around the garden, unless the plant needs deadheading.

So now I also copy the plant to a separate, chronological, list in Flowering Order. That is divided into fortnightly periods which seems to have been OK so far. The original Walking Order lists have separate pages for each area of the garden, and their NW, NE, etc. names make sense within that grouping. In the Flowering List I have had to invent Prefixes for the bed names so “Sh” is the Shrubbery, “Hot” is the Red Border, “Jun” is the Exotic Jungle and so on, but I have grouped the entries for each two-week period by bed, in walking order, so as I am walking round the garden I can easily see if anything should be in flower so that I note it. But so far I have not cracked remembering to record the end of flowering

Walking Order Plant List

Walking Order Plant List

But that was until I started the Daffodil Project – I planted 25 each of 28 varieties with a view to deciding on two or three varieties that would work well naturalised in the lawn, and would make a nice, complementing, selection from Early through Mid to Late flowering. For that I need to know the dates when the various varieties flower, but also the stem height and the greater detail of when the buds start to show colour, when the first flower opens and the last flower starts to fade, so I created a spreadsheet for them. They are listed in walking order (its a cutting bed – I planted them in Alphabetical Order so it was easier to guess a name …) and I used Conditional Formatting to highlight the cell that represents the next “event” for that variety – so as I walk along I just need to consider if that event has happened, rather than trying to record that the thing is in flower – which it has been the last three weeks when I walked down the bed!

This is the first year after planting, so the dates are probably meaningless – even as a relative measure of flowering times – and certainly they bear no relationship to the Early / Mid / Late indicators in the catalogue (although they may well turn out to be useless anyway). So another year, or two, data recording before I can decide which bulbs are going to be my shortlist-of-three for the main, naturalised, planting.

Daffodil Flowering Spreadsheet

Daffodil Flowering Spreadsheet

In other news:

I’ve updated the Long Walk article with details of the Folly we are building

See also:

The Daffodil Cutting Bed project


Seed Packet Storage, Organisation and Planning Wednesday 9 March 2016

Filed under: Uncategorized — kgarden @ 12:00 am

It comes up for discussion now and again, and folk have different ways of organising their seed packets. I think it depends on how many packets you have … I, for sure, have “too many” …

In the past I’ve put all the seed packets in a shoebox size container, in alphabetical order

Seed Packets Shoebox

Seed Packets Shoebox

and then had a Spreadsheet where I listed them with intended sowing date, germination temperature, and columns for when I actually sowed them, pricked out, planted out and so on.

Seed Sowing Spreadsheet

Seed Sowing Spreadsheet

There has been more good-intent than actual data logging! In the Winter months all the seed packets I have bought do indeed get logged (its not hard to cut & paste into the Spreadsheet from the email confirmation of an online purchase), but then I print out a To Do list, sorted by Sowing Date, and I scribble on that how many I grew, and when I planted them out … and typically I lose the piece of paper, or it gets “piled” in my office ready to join a long list of things reserved for the proverbial rainy day.

The import things, which have worked for me, are:

Find a specific seed packet – alphabetical in a box solves that.
Remember to sow it at the right time – Spreadsheet solves that.

There are some downsides to my current system. First, whereas it seems that seed packets used to be a similar size (at least the few brands that I favoured were) and thus align neatly in my shoebox, now they are all sorts of shapes and sizes.

Seed Packet Sizes

Seed Packet Sizes

There are two reasons for this, one is the blasted marketing people trying to differentiate their product – such as the fancy, double-wide, packet for the James Wong collect from Suttons, and the second is that many of the “economy” brands are shipping their seeds in small ziplock bags or similar. They just get lost, and muddled up, in my shoebox.

The second problem is that for some years I’ve been growing quite a lot of different varieties of some seeds. I’ve got 5 different types of Onion this year, but in practice they are all sown on the same day. Its a bit tedious to list them individually on my spreadsheet, then make sure they all have the same “Start” date, Germination temperature, etc. and chances are when I grab them from my showbox the one in the little fiddly packet might well escape and not get sown anyway.

I’m also in disgrace for commandeering a large amount of space in the kitchen at this time of year; it used to be more straightforward until the number of packets got out of hand. I liked to have piles of packets that were Work-in-Progress, and I knew which was what (tidy and organised people will be horrified to read this; sorry about that!). Its no longer practical, the piles either fall over or “have to be moved” and then I lose my place in the piling system.

So this year I’ve decided to try A5 envelopes instead. For some veg types I will have a couple of envelopes – e.g. one for Early Tomatoes (the ones that have a very long growing season and which I want to kick off on 1st January) and the second for Main Tomatoes which I will sow mid to end of February. I’ve got three seed packets in the Early group, and four or five in the Main group. I will pop those into the relevant envelop, all together, and then sow all the envelop contents on the same day. Next year whatever is left of the seed will still be there to be used up.

For organisation I’ve printed on the outside of the A5 envelop all the details about intended sowing date, how many plants I plan to grow, an then have space to handwrite all the varieties, the actual sowing / pricking out / planting dates – which in previous years I had such good intentions to enter into my spreadsheet!

Seedpacket Record Card

Seedpacket Record Card

I have always written the date of sowing on the packet, as well as on my spreadsheet printout, so writing it on the new envelope cover shouldn’t be onerous. There are about 30 lines on an envelope, so if I grow five or six varieties the envelope history will last for five or six years – probably about the lifetime of the envelope itself.

I may make a cut-down spreadsheet, omitting details of individual varieties, just to create a Calendar to remind me of the key dates when I should sow Early / Main Tomatoes etc. That will safeguard me from putting the Tomato envelope in the wrong place (more important to remind me about successional sowing crops), and the actual envelopes can be stored, back in the original shoebox, in either alphabetical order or sowing-date order.

This is what my printed A5 envelopes look like:

Seed Envelopes

Seed Envelopes

Initially I only printed envelopes for seeds that came in regular and small packets, but then I decided that Runner Beans etc. also needed an envelop (so that they were “in the system”), even though the actual bags-of-beans won’t fit in the envelop. I then added Envelopes for Cutting Bed Annuals and so on. I don’t need one-per-variety – for example: I only have one variety of Larkspur, but I have several other cutting bed Annuals that I sow at the same time, so three envelopes labelled Early, Mid and Late Sown Annuals is sufficient for things that need sowing from mid February to mid March, and I can then decide that a particular seed packet needs adding to one of my February packets … or a March one. Similarly for Herbs I’ve wound up with three envelopes, with a selection of different Herb seed packets in each one

I had one final, unexpected, “win”. I round-up and keep used labels from one year to the next. The permanent marker I use lasts well beyond the time when the plastic label disintegrates in the sun! but finding the right label, in a huge bundle of them, is a wretched nuisance. Now I can just chuck the used labels into the appropriate Seed Envelop and then, next spring, the label will be there together with the corresponding seed packet.

Old Labels - now stored "ready" in Seed Envelopes

Old Labels – now stored “ready” in Seed Envelopes


Anglesey Abbey Winter Garden Sunday 7 February 2016

Filed under: Uncategorized — kgarden @ 12:00 am

We previously visited Anglesey Abbey to see the Winter Garden in January 2014, looking for ideas for our own Autumn and Winter Garden, but we were too early to see the Snowdrops in flower, so we went back at the weekend for another look and I have updated my original article with some new photographs.

Dogwood and Snowdrop James Backhouse

Dogwood and Snowdrop James Backhouse


Original article January 2014 visit
February 2016 visit


Shallots – Seed or Sets?, French or Dutch? Thursday 4 February 2016

Filed under: Uncategorized — kgarden @ 12:00 am

It is a long time since I grew Shallots – I’m not the chef, just the vegetable grower, and in that role I had assumed that Shallots are the equivalent of small Onions (whilst I was aware that Shallots keep better than Onions, we’ve never had a problem storing Onions) and Chef has never expressed a wish for any additional variants of Onions for the kitchen. But this year’s goal is Maximum Flavour and in reading-around I now realise that the flavour of Shallots will benefit some types of cooking, so I bought a packet of seed (Shallot “Zebrune”).

Shallot Zebrune

Shallot Zebrune

I wasn’t sure about sowing time as my regular gardening books tend to refer to Sets, rather than Seed, for both Onions and Shallots, and Joy Larkcom says “Sow indoors in early spring like Bulb Onions on Page XXX” … well, the Bulb Onion page talks about making an early start (i.e. early January), under cover which is indeed what I do, but despite the mild Winter and the first Daffs being in flower I wouldn’t call that “Early Spring”! so I went on a research hunt with Google; that is always a time-consuming exercise as I get side tracked easily, and of course “Ask two gardeners and get three opinions” also applies so I’m often more confused at the end than I was at the start.

The two main conflicting opinions I read were “True Shallots cannot be grown from seed” and “All commercially grown Shallots are grown from seed“. What this translates into, I believe!, is that the Shallots favoured for flavour are vegetatively reproduced because they don’t set any seed, this includes varieties like Échalote Grise (which is French for Grey Shallot), Longor (the Jersey Shallot) and Hative de Niort. I’ve bought some sets of the first two from The Garlic Farm in the Isle of Wight; they should really have been planted in the Autumn, but The Garlic Farm were very helpful and said they do have growers who buy & plant in the Spring, so I will pot them up (either that or start them in modules) and put them in the greenhouse for a bit so they can get a wiggle on.

Shallot Échalote Grise

Shallot Échalote Grise

The seed raised shallots are perhaps best termed “Dutch Shallots”, seed being produced for commercial growers (although I presume that in France their culinary varieties are indeed grown from offsets from the previous year’s crop) and given my new found enthusiasm for the French Shallots I was sitting on the fence about whether to bother with the Shallot seed I had bought – that was until I had watched some YouTubes from Dan’s “Allotment Diary” (the moment his videos launch with his customary “Hi Folks” I am immediately cheered up, along with his stock phrases like “just a quick update” which then becomes a well informed education lesson). I watched his video on sowing & growing Shallots and looking back through his YouTube history I can see he’s made a similar video every year for quite some time, going back to the point at which he first tried them and then waxed lyrical about how much better [he thought] they were than Onions (“Once you’ve tried them you’ll always grow them again“), so I’m sold!


The Garlic Farm, Suttons Seeds Shallot Zebrune, Dan’s Allotment Diary : Growing Giant Banana Shallots : You must try these ! on YouTube. If you don’t already know Dan’s videos it is worth looking out for his Pottery Videos too, he’s a talented lad, eh?, and I particularly liked his video about making a Recorder [musical instrument] out of a Carrot, which he seemed to do effortlessly.


Vegetable Seed Sowing for 2016 has Started Wednesday 3 February 2016

Filed under: Uncategorized — kgarden @ 12:01 am

I’ve made a start, later and more shaky than normal, on my vegetable seed sowing for the season ahead. My usual vegetable seed-sowing routine used to start with the Wyevale Seed Sale, just after August Bank Holiday, when seed packets were sold off for 50p each. They may have had a sale in 2015, but I skipped it; I have always got on well with Suttons Seeds, and conversely I’ve had a fair bit of bother with Thompson and Morgan, and in 2015 my local Wyevale only stocked T&M seeds so I didn’t bother to look out for the sale.

Times move on in other ways too, for the last couple of years I’ve augmented my seed purchases from Premier Seeds Direct (on eBay) as most of their seed packets are 99p and contain a decent number of seeds.

Premier Seeds Direct -  Seed Packet

Premier Seeds Direct – Seed Packet

I’ve been meaning to give MoreVeg a go, as well as Just Seeds.

MoreVeg - Seed Packet

MoreVeg – Seed Packet

Most of MoreVeg’s seed packets are 50p each (other than some fancy F1 varieties) because they only have a “modest” number of seeds in each packet. That’s fine by me, I only need what I need. I’ve just taken the first example that came into my head – so may not be the best one! – the Lobjoits Cos Lettuce. I sow 6 lettuce seed (actually 6 each of 3 different varieties) every fortnight from March to Jun, so about 8 “sowings”, x 6 = 48 seeds required. Lettuce seed is close to 100% germination … MoreVeg is 50p for 75 seeds, Suttons is £1.75 for 1,300 seeds. MoreVeg is going to last me close to 2 years, whereas a packet from Suttons will last 27 years!! (of course it won’t, as Lettuce seed doesn’t have viability for that length of time, at least not when in my care it doesn’t!)

Just Seeds  - Seed Packet

Just Seeds – Seed Packet

JustSeed is a bit different; they have their own brand (JustSeed’s Lobjoits Cos is 99p for 500 seeds) and they also sell other brands(*) – which can make for a convenient one-stop shop, but that also means that the Product pages are more cluttered. They don’t, for example, have a filter to be able to just view their/a specific brand.

A problem, for me, with MoreVeg is that whilst for most things a small quantity of seed is enough, for some things it isn’t. Take Musselburgh Leek seed for example: MoreVeg packet is 50 seeds – I want to grow at least 50 Leeks, I will get good germination, but not 100%; it would be nice if they also offered a “larger packet” Premier Seeds Direct has 1,500 seeds for 99p so clearly I am better off with that, rather than buying two packets from MoreVeg. (Suttons was £1.99 for 350 seeds, the other well known brands were similar)

Sadly I’m a Detail Person, so I then set about figuring out whether I should buy my Lobjoits Cos Lettuce seed from MoreVeg, JustSeeds or Premier Seeds Direct. There is undoubtedly a cost-benefit-equation to be done there, but saving the difference between 50p and 99p doesn’t allow much budget for time researching it!; of course I was also at risk of ordering from multiple suppliers when my numerous Wish Lists got in a muddle and overlapped. Not everyone sold all the varieties I wanted, so I was having to optimise my lists for who-has-what.

I kept prevaricating and putting off … and putting off … until I was spurred on by the need to start sowing Onions in January and the left-over seed from last year was insufficient for this year’s crop. The good news is that it is all done now, and seed sowing has started in earnest.

Something else got in the way of my getting started. For some years I’ve been very comfortable that I knew the Provenance of all the vegetables that we ate; I don’t have to worry (as I choose to do when I shop at the supermarket) about whether a crop was recently sprayed with pesticides – I haven’t used any on my plot in a decade or more. Of course I could buy Organic Veg at the Supermarket, but I’m not entirely convinced that is the best solution (from my perspective). Farmers have to make a living, Organic crops have lower yields and damage by pests still needs to be tackled – perhaps they solve that by selecting a variety which is high in natural Pyrethrins, and I’m not sure that is any better for me than the chemicals used on a non-organic crop, or perhaps the variety that the bugs don’t want to eat won’t have any flavour when I eat it either. So there I was, blissfully happy knowing the provenance of my own crops – in fact I’ve been lecturing friends and family as to that benefit for many years.

In addition to Provenance of the crops, each year I have selected one or two crops to trial several different varieties; last year it was Broad Beans and I grew five different ones. We then had a taste-trial, and in future years I can grow whichever the family prefers (and relegate the Losers). My cogs turn slowly! so it is only this year that I have come to the realisation that in addition to No Pesticides I should also only be growing Best Flavour veg. I’m lucky to have enough land not to have to maximise my yield, so no real reason not to choose Best Flavour varieties, irrespective of Yield and Disease susceptibility. Once I had come to that realisation I bought James Wong’s book “Grow for Flavour”.

James Wong - Grow for Flavour

James Wong – Grow for Flavour

I’ve watched James Wong’s TV series in the past and been interested in his Botanist’s views on a variety of things (although his series on “Grow your own Drugs” didn’t make me into an underworld gangster billionaire!), but I was a bit sceptical as to how much of a difference his suggestions might make. The book reads a bit the same to me, although he writes (scientifically) about various benefits, both in terms of husbandry and variety selection. Take Blueberries for example: “… have enjoyed a meteoric rise to popularity thanks to one little word: ‘antioxidants’. What supermarkets don’t tell you, however, is that while hyping Blueberry’s ‘superfood’ status on packets, behind the scenes they have been actively selecting the lowest antioxidant varieties possible. I kid you not! In the search of ever larger berries (which are quicker to pick), breeders have been selecting for fruit that have a much lower ratio of skin to fruit.” He goes on to explain how this, and other factors, mean that the varieties of Blueberry sold in Supermarket are much lower in nutritional benefit than other varieties, plants of which are readily available for amateur gardeners to buy. As well as describing techniques for growing for flavour he also include in depth details of varieties that he has trialled and found to have the best flavour (e.g. using the Brix sweetness test), so I set about buying seed varieties on his recommendation in order to grow them for my family’s this-year’s-taste-test. Suttons Seeds have a James Wong range which includes some (but not nearly all) of the things that James Wong suggests, so along with agonising over whether to buy a Brand-X packet of Lettuce seed for 50p, or 99p, I’ve also been splashing out £4 for a pinch of James Wong’s Carrot seed from Suttons!

James Wong - Seed Packet

James Wong – Seed Packet

MoreVeg: Pro: informative card insert in the packet. Cons: Plastic zip-lock bags (static electricity causes small seeds to stick to the bag when you try to get them out). Heat-sealed, so have to cut off that part of the bag which then leaves very little to grip to get the bag open. “year of packing” sticker over the mouth of the bag, which is cut off with the heat-shrink bit, and thus that information is then lost for future years. All packets are “small quantity”, which is fine, and cost effective, for most things but as I mentioned earlier it would be helpful to also have larger packets for things like Leeks.

JustSeeds: Pro: Nice packets, sowing details printed on the outside. Other brands(*) also available. Cons: Zip-lock bag of seeds on the inside so the same static-electricity problem. (Not heat-sealed though).

Premier Seeds Direct: the last two years I have received packets that were the wrong variety (compared to my order), and on one occasion the dwarf beans (on the label) actually turned out to be climbing beans. I notice that this year every [from memory] packet now has a barcode, which was not the case before, so hopefully that means that all orders are re-barcoded before despatch to double check that the right packets have been picked; my order was 100% right for the first time this year (although not grown them yet of course …). Many of the packets are foil, which is much better than plastic bags, but some are still plastic bags. Cons: plastic bags. No instructions on the packet, you are supposed to “see the website” but that information is buried in all the other wibble which makes up their eBay listing, which is far from ideal. I find ordering off eBay (where I want tens-of-items from a single supplier) is far more tedious than from a dedicated website; I think the Amazon shopping experience is even worse – there is no left-pane list of all the different vegetable types to make it easy to find “Some sort of Leek seed”). Range of varieties is small (which given my new objective or choosing varieties for flavour means that they don’t have many of the things that I would like, but I am sure for other folk who just want “regular Leek seeds” they will have something suitable)

(*) JustSeeds also sells: Mr Fothergills, Thompson & Morgan, Unwins, Johnsons, Jekka Herbs, Marshalls Seeds, and Robinsons Seeds.


Seed companies: MoreVeg, JustSeeds, Premier Seeds Direct eBay Store, also on Amazon. James Wong’s seed at Suttons Seeds

James Wong’s “Grow for Flavour”Amazon link

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